Catskill Fly
Tyers GuildCatskill Fly
Tyers GuildVolume 1, Number 3, May '98
Hook - Mustad 94842 (or comparable) # 14 or 16
Thread - Olive
Body - stripped dun hackle
Tail - fight dun spade
Wing - wood duck
Hackle - dun & grizzly
NOTES FROM THE NEVERSINK (Part 2 of Bill Leuzler article. Part I appeared in the March issue)
The two other patterns which proved successful on the lower Neversink are ones that I developed myself. What makes them distinct is the use of light colored fox fur which is then dyed with what I refer to as "Nature" materials. Both pattems are thought to represent stone fly nymphs.
The first pattern I call Yellow Stone Fly.- The pattern that I developed is described bel
Hook: # 12 or 10, 3906B
Thread: Cream or Primrose Tail: Mallard flank fibers
Body: Silver fox fur which has been dyed with onion skins to achieve a light yellow
Rib: Gold wire
Hackle: Cream grizzly from Indian neck Wing: Slate goose or duck wing
This pattern would be taken only on a dead drift in the area that I fished on the Neversink. And when I had a strike the fish meant business. This pattern is not for 6x tippet!
I had come to this pattern choice to some degree by coincidence. But it's similarity to some old time patterns which I had used previously is important to note. There is a pattern called Neversink. Mary Marbury's book mentions it. Basically the only difference in the pattern noted above is that I use slate goose instead of mallard flank feather for the wing. Also there is a pattern called Gordon, which is attributed to Theodore Gordon. This pattern calls for yellow floss and wood duck wing I believe.
Having used all three patterns noted above, Yellow Stone Fly, Neversink and Gordon, I would say that my Stone fly pattern proved the best fish taker. Another pattern, called the Yellow Sally was useless.
The third pattern that proved quite successful I call the Amber Stone Fly which I describe below:
Hook: 4 12 or 10, 9672
Tail: Cock pheasant tail fibers
Body: Silver fox fur which has been dyed with Black Walnut hulls to achieve a light brown or amber color
Rib: Dark brown cotton sewing thread
Hackle: Woodcock body feather
Wing: Dark, brown turkey tail feathers
Again the pattern proved most successful on dead drift. And,as with the Yellow Stone Fly, pretty heavy tippet is a must. I would suggest 4x.
More on the iower Neversink in upcoming issues.
SEND ARTICLES, COMMENTS, ADS., IDEAS, ETC. to: Allan Podell, 100 Glen Ave. Elmira, NY 14905
OF, e-mail address: apodell@stny.1run.com
THE BOTTLE BRUSH NYMPHS: By Floyd Franke and illustrated by Paul Bachem
There is something very appealing about extended body flies.
Some tiers see them as possessing a functional and aesthetic balance not seen in more traditional flies. The extended body design places the bulk of the hook's mass, the bend and point, closer to the center of the fly's mass. the thorax. Other tiers more concerned with stealth than balance are attracted to extended body flies because the placement of the hook's bend and point nearer the thorax offers them greater concealment. If the thorax happens to support legs, as is common with nymph patterns, so much the better.
Whatever the reason for the attraction, extended body flies are gaining in popularity among fly tiers and fishermen alike. While dry flies have historically received the most attention, extended body nymph patterns enjoy the same benefits of balance and stealth as their dry fly counterparts. These benefits are readily apparent in Bottle Brush Nymphs.
Bottle Brush Nymphs come in a variety of shapes, sizes and colors but all use prespun dubbing to construct their unique extended bodies. The requisite dubbing, commonly called bottle brush, is available at most fly shops as Magic Dub or Dubbing Brush. This type of dubbing uses wire rather than thread as a foundation material, hence, it can hold a bend. The Bottle Brush Nymphs capitalize upon this essential property in their construction. The tying instructions are as follows:
1. Select a bundle of fibers from the tail feather of a cock pheasant appropriate for the size fly you are tying (3-5 fibers, size 16; 6-9 fibers, sizes 14-12; 10 plus fibers, size 10).
2. Hold the bundle of pheasant tail fibers by their tips covering with your thumb and finger that portion of the bundle equal to the length of the tail. Coat the remaining exposed section of the bundle with Fleximent.
3. While the Fleximent is drying. flatten the bundle from round into an oval.
4. Take a 3" piece of wire dubbing and bend it into the shape of a "V'.
5. Place the tips of the pheasant tail fibers and the "V" of' dubbing between the thumb and first finger. Adjust the length of the nymph's tail by holding more or less of the tips between your thumb and finger. (Se figure 1).
6. The 2 ends of the dubbing are now criss-crossed back and forth, first under the pheasant tail fibers then over them, weaving the two materials into a durable extended body. (See figure 2).
7. To achieve a tight compact body, compress each wrap of dubbing one against the other as shown in figure 3.
The completed body is then attached to a proportionately sized short shanked hook and the remainder of the fly finished using prespun wire dubbing or more traditional fur dubs.
Bottle Brush Nymphs can be dressed up or down. You might, for example, tie a wing case over the dubbed thorax to create a simple but effective fishing fly. Add some legs and monofiliment eyes to your nymphs and you can attract the attention of both fish and fishermen. If you enjoy experimenting with flies as I do, you will love these nymphs. Their motion and general appearance in the water can be changed simply by bending their extended bodies up, down, left or right. The Bottle Brush Nymphs are the perfect flies to explore how body posture influences the feeding behavior fish.
Bottle Brush Nymphs are easy to tie and aesthetically pleasing to the eye. They have shown themselves to be every bit as effective as traditional pattems while offering far greater fishing potential then any to date. Give them a try, I think you will like them.
NEWS & NEWSWORTHY:
1. GUILD WEB SITES: Guild information is on 2 web sites: /CatskillFlyGuild/welcorne.htmI OR- http://www.breaemor.com/cat/part4.html.
2. Several Guild members tyed soft hackle wet flies that were presented at each plate at the Anglers Reunion, held on March 3 1. at the Rockland House.
3. Cost of Newsletter: The total cost to have the March Newsletter printed and mailed (minus revenue from ads.) was $79.
The Newsletter eliminates the need to send out a separate Meeting Notice, saving approximately $41 every other month.
MATERIAL SELECTION: Dave Catizone
All of us who tye fishing flies know how much a fine "Rooster Neck" can make or break us when we finally use the neck for our applications. There are some insights, I for one, would like to share with you.
First, decide what warrants the use of a new color "Rooster Neck". The patterns you tye most often will dictate the colors you would need to satisfy your requirements. Color is important: select a suitable color first, as this should be first always!
In order to tve the "Catskill" Dry Flies, these colors should be kept in mind: white, cream, light ginger, dark ginger, a medium ginger and brown. The dun colors of pale watery dun, light dun, honey dun, medium dun, dark dun, sandy dun, light rusty dun, rusty dun, dark rusty dun, bronze dun and a dark bronze dun are needed in the color spectrum. Unusual or rare colored necks may also be called for from time to time in some selected fly patterns. Color necks such as cree, furnace, a true black and a natural coachman brown are very desireable when located. If you see a color which is hard to get, make the small sacrifice and obtain it, for it may not come available later. A selection of quality "Hackle" will not hurt anyone who ties their own flies seriously. Tis is not a complete list by any means: see, I forgot to mention the "Badgers". You understand what I'm trying to convey.
Color first, obviously. Now my real point will be thrust upon you. When looking for a "Rooster Neck" to possibly purchase, do not put so much emphasis on the grade designation say A I - #2 - or 43. Look at the actual feathers. This drives me crazy when I see a fly tyer stare at the grading and completely disregard the actual feathers!
My lord, you tye with the feathers not the grading numbers. What if they were misgraded? A neck could be better (or worse) then what a person grades it at the breeders. LOOK the feathers over. Make your own determination. Yes a #3 neck just might fit your need and thus save a few dollars to be sure. If the grading numbers do influence your choice in the selection, still take the time when looking at the actual feathers. A grade 93 11 rooster neck" , for instance, may exhibit all the necessary feather qualities such as the suitable color, shine, barb count and stiffness one would desire. Take your time when determining all these criteria. Again, you don't tye with the grading number, the feathers are what you tye with. Don't get so caught up in someone elses grading all the time. You be the judge of what best suits your tying needs. Enough.
This lecture of mine was based on tying these "Catskill" Dry Flies for over twenty five years. I've had good and bad necks. No one Res soft, twisted necks to tye with. Obtain the best quality necks you can. Aquire assorted colors for future pattern uses. Two hackles per fly is not uncommon: that's correct, Mrs. Elsie Darbee used two hackles on each fly. I would bet I'm going to ruffle a few by revealing this fact. Hey, I have some of the expensive necks, a Hoffman or two, and I still use two hackles. Sorry!
My teachings warrant the above. This was a steadfast tying rule no matter how great the hackle was! Now small flies of say #20-#28 range would not need to be double hackled. This was not brought up to dismay or anger anyone. The reason I brought it up is that for most of us "Guild" members, it is traditional. a point of fact, that two hackles are the standard on Dry Flies when made in the true "Catskill" style.
Material Selection was the first of many "tying thoughts" planned for our Newsletter. From time to time there will be tying tips, thoughts on materials, fly patterns and related tying topics. There will also be articles on "Catskill" history and the individuals who have made a contribution to the storied angling history of the area known as the "Catskills".
Good fortune and good tying. Your thoughts and comments are welcomed.
EDITORIAL: A. Podell
A friend of mine, Mr. Harry Tobey, passed away recently. He was 87. 1 met Mr. Tobey about 5 years ago at a sportmans show in Watkins Glen, NY. I was tying at a table when he stopped by and introduced himself After a brief conversation he invited me to his home for coffee and some more conversation. I accepted his invitation and we spent several hours, as we did many many more times since, talking about fly tying, fly fishing, hunting and anything to do with the outdoors. He wasn't a "Catskill" fly tyer/fisherman but he was a pioneer fly tyer in this part of NY. He kept a log of orders for his flies that he showed me. It dated back to the 1940's. I'm not exactly sure when he stopped tying in quantity, maybe about ten years ago, but I know that some people still asked him to do some tying.
In spite of our age difference we became friends. His stories about fly fishing in this part of New York and Pennsylvania were limitless and we talked for hours. He allowed me to borrow some of his books which was something he did not normally do. I fished with him when we could get together. We fished on Seneca Lake (one of the Finger Lakes) and the Cohochton River. His casting, using a brace of 3 flies, was graceful and you could barely make out a disturbance as they touched down on the water. Although when we fished together we didn't do especially well, he certainly caught his share of fish, big fish. Last summer, at age 86, Harry pulled an 8+ pound Brown Trout out of Seneca Lake.
Shortly before his death Harry offered me several fly fishing items including his favorite flyrod. He didn't think he would ever use these again. I declined his generous offer hoping that, just maybe, he would enjoyjust one more season.
I'll miss my visits to Harry's home, his generosity, our conversations and the times we spent together.
THANK YOU: Just a short note to let all the Guild members who sent in information for the Newsletter know that I appreciate their help. I know all of you reading this issue have ideas worth sharing. Write them down and get them to me so I can include them in an upcoming issue. Comments about articles are encouraged. Keep those cards & letters coming. AP
FOR YOUR INFORMATION: By Ted Patlen
FYI: pt. I. The absolute only way to catch a fish is with a 92 weighted streamer fly on a 9', 6"weight, high modulus graphite rod, strung with a 200 grain sinking head. Of course the reel must be a 4 ball bearing aircraft aluminum, high strength, light weight, high end reel! I'd never be caught dead on Wagon Tracks using a cane rod or even use a fly tved with dead chicken parts! I also enjoy catching browns out of Cairn's with a little ultra light spin cast outfit and a Rapala.
Am I doing ANYTHING wrong ... illegal? No.
That's what makes this pastime so enjoyable. A person can decide what they want to use and how to use it just about whenever they want to. The only time we should voice our opinion is if/when the other person does something illegal. We are most probably seen as immoral and outlandish to their eyes.
For the sake of argument, we don't really need a vise to tie flies or a rod and a reel to fish with, but it sure is a lot more fun using equipment that we're happy with.
A friend of mine once said to me, "Whatever floats your boat."
FYI: pt. 2. Of all the classic, historic patterns that you have tied and used ... which pattern(s) have you never caught a trout with?
If you are not familiar with me let me explain that I am a streamer person. I'd much rather sling a streamer around than float a dry fly or drown a nymph although I not purely a streamer type guy. I do enjoy all types of fly fishing but I'm not here to argue whether dry fly fishing versus whatever is better or not. I love the anticipation of that "fish out of' no where" whacking a sunken bucktail more so than the subtle take of a trout.
The two (and I'm sure that there are more) that come to mind are the Grey Ghost and the Mickey Finn. I've fished them over freshly stocked trout, through clouds of trout at famous fisheries known for their easy targets and a few maddening times over wild landlocks. I've used them in most of the states from Pennsylvania up to New Brunswick. Not a single tug.
UNTITLED ARTICLE - By Paul Hoyt
Recently I had the pleasure of teaching four fly-tying classes at The Jerry Bartlett Memorial Angling Collection at the Phoenicia Library. The first three classes were easy to design and teach because they were for beginners. The fourth class presented me with a real problem. I had promised in this fourth class to reveal everything I knew about Catskill wet and dry flies. Wonderful things like spade hackle, Darbee Duns, woodduck wings, copper wire ribbing, bronze peacock and Coachman brown feathers had been promised. How was I ever going to pull this off in a four-hour class? The answer came to me while on a Sunday winter hike to Southwest Hunter Mt. and Hunter Mt.
The Beaverkill and the Willowemoc have over the years had a lot written about them. The people who lived on and fished these rivers along with their fly -tying styles have had a lot written about them also. My native stream, the Esopus, suffers from a paucity of writing. Yet the Esopus has a solid history of fly-tying styles and personalities. One of these personalities was Ray Smith. Ray was my mentor in many things along with teaching me how to tye flies.
While hiking, the idea for the fourth class came into focus. The idea was simple. Why not dedicate the day to Ray Smith and the flies he taught me to tye. My preparation for the class began with a gathering of all the Ray Smith paraphernalia I had gathered in approximately 25+ years of fly-tying and 3 moves. Much to my delight I found a guide to some of Ray's wet fly patterns along with an article in the Catskills about him and his pattern for the Red Fox. The rest was simple. The four flies picked for the class were: The Lead Wing Coachman wet fly, The Adams Dry Fly, Ray's Isonychia and the Dun Variant Flick. The reason why the Dun Variant Flick was used was to teach students how to do a quill body and at the same time learn how to hackle a dry fly without having the problem of wings. I will give the patterns for the first 3 flies and the pattern for the Red Fox.
Finally, it is my belief that a person never dies if that person has passed on a piece of himself or herself to another. Ray, you are alive and well in Phoenicia and we certainly had a day!
THE OFF SEASON NEWS - By Brooks Gordon
The off season is not really a good title for fall and winter months. Most trout fishing in the Catskills is not done at this time and that's what 'off-season' implies. For fly tyers, maybe it is the busy time, the 'on-season'.
This fall, for the Guild, meant readying for shows and tying at sessions led by Hank Rope, Ralph Graves and Paul Filippone. Our meetings are quite an opportunity to learn about tying... different views and techniques each time we have a tying session. How would you like to have had that advantage when you started, (I'm writing now, of course to the old timer who started with the brevity of Gregg and the balogna of Herter's)?!
We didn't opt to participate in the FFF Show, in New England, but were looking ahead to three big shows in New Jersey in November, January and March.
Our colaberation with CFFC on the tying kits is still going on, with two new flies, wets, in the offing for '98. Ralph Graves will tie the examples for the cover photos, John Jacobson will be writing and illustrating the instructions, and John Drew and I will probably be rounding up the materials for the March Brown and Leadwing Coachman.
Kudo's to Bill Leuszler and Allan Podell for their efforts on behalf of the Guild. Bill's 'Favorite Flies and Favorite Rivers' came out great, (if it doesn't give away too many hot spots).
Thanks also here to John Jacobson, the illustrator (cont., pg. 6) and to all who contributed.
Allan has given us a bonafide newsletter! Most of us belong to other groups, other clubs and organizations who do newsletters and we know how difficult it is to beg, find or bribe someone to do an attractive, informative and timely newsletter. Allan stepped up and volunteered! We've seen a couple of issues now, and I say.........well done!
By deep winter we were in the throes of coming up with a formal rendition of our By-Laws to facilitate obtaining *not for profit' status.
Also, by now we were represented on the railing surrounding the new museum at CFFC. We'll have a Guild Plaque embedded there for posterity!
Ralph Graves and Dave Catizone won prizes at our 3rd annual ? materials swap, Ralph for the weirdest (who'd have thunk it), and Dave for the most! This writer couldn't fill his truck and get there this time, or maybe, could have won something (or maybe swapped for something weird).
Ken Mears will be co-ordinating our tying classes this spring at CFFC. Also pitching in for this worthwhile program will be A] Ampe, Dave Catizone, Doc Fried, Bob Osburn and Ralph Graves.
We now have the new (ammended) patches, and new pins, but we need to exhaust our supply of old ones before breaking into the new, so let's buy those (collectable?) pins while they last.
Moving into spring, with over 150 members, and a treasury sound enough to fund YOUR project, we've much to ponder: swapping only Catskill flies, competition tying and what ElNino has done to (for?) this season's fishing!
Tight Lines.
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